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Brett R
29-03-2009, 04:24 PM
I was just wondering if anyone new what kind of material i could use to put on metal corner tapes. I was thinking of buying a mud hopper which applies the mud to the back of the tape for quicker application. Since there's been times lately that we've been putting up to 15 boxes of corner tape in one area and seems to take way to long by hand and using fast set. We use this process in Canada with taping mud which has a adhesive in the mixture. I was just wondering if velvet would have enough bonding in it to fix the tape to the external corners. Cheers

amestaper
29-03-2009, 07:09 PM
15 boxes in one area? I love doing all that kind of detail by hand.

I've seen guys do it with ames, joint cement, mud or whatever you want to call the air drying compound they used. The problem is an air drying compound never 'sets' and you would be as well using masking tape to stick the metal corner tape on in my opinion as it won't take a knock (I hear you can use it with the No-Coat tape brand) Perhaps it would work with a plasterers bead securely fixed?

I recommend using Easi-Fill 90 minute set in the green bags if you want to use a hopper. Applying by hand, you cant go wrong with BG Joint Filler or LaFarge FastSet.

TonyM
29-03-2009, 07:31 PM
I wouldn't use air drying with flex tape. I'm using Easifill with No-coat and that's working well. I've used joint cement with Tape-on beads and an external mud head before.

geordieboy
30-03-2009, 09:06 PM
if your using 15 boxes in one job ye go for the mud hopper , it will save you time rather than putting your fast set on by hand on your externals,just pull it through and stick it on,i think you can get external rollers to bed the metals on as well, then you would just have to flush them off with the float

Brett R
01-04-2009, 09:50 PM
Hey thanks guy's for the in put should be a good idea to get the mud hopper . Cheers

amestaper
04-04-2009, 02:03 PM
Hey thanks guy's for the in put should be a good idea to get the mud hopper . Cheers

I've never used one, any chance you could post a link to where you're buying please?

the_tapeinator
04-04-2009, 03:53 PM
If you use that amount of corner tape each day you would be mad not to get one. How much are they?

Lightrock
04-04-2009, 08:41 PM
to find boxes: with prices in US$ (sorry)
http://www.all-wall.com/acatalog/Tape_On_CB_Tools.php
there is one page, for example.

Skocan: If you are using velvet: is that an All-purpose or a Finish compound?(synko red velvet? haven't seen that in years!) I'd add a bit of white glue to ensure adhesion. As long as you aren't on a crowded site (knocking into the tapes) Air dry works fine with that, with a reasonable amount of heat or low relative humidity. in a rainy or coastal area, British Columbia or ah maybe UK... go with what those pros do.
Being here in Canada myself, I use Straight-flex for odd insides or paperbacked metal and air dry the taping mud without coating, then coat the beads next day when i know they aren't going to move. The metal corner tape you mention, is that two metal strips adhered to a paper strip on a roll, sometimes called "Sure-corner', or two metal strips bound to a nylon 'string' hinge in a box of 50 x 8' or 10' Pieces?
http://www.all-wall.com/acatalog/Drywall_Corner_Tapes.html No-Coat is supposed to work with all purpose, but i never liked it.
I have a feeling i am missing a detail or two here with our different taping systems..
Amestaper; how fast do you try to coat your work over there if the compound never sets? one coat a day whether it dries or not? or do you just mean the chemical 'setting' of fast set? I have always found our taping mud (Yellow boxes) holds better on most beads than fast set which is brittle. what do you gents use?

Does anyone use steel corner beads over there? Paper faced metal? or vinyl?

amestaper
05-04-2009, 10:48 AM
We use three different methods Lightrock depending on customer specification and price. In order from cheapest to most expensive.

We can apply Gyproc metal corner tape, this comes in 33m (100 ft) boxes and is the 2 metal strips bonded to paper.

For a little more, we will use the thin plasterers beads if its part of the job spec.

If they pay me a fortune, I will use No-Coat.

The common denominator in the first 2 methods is that I use a quick setting chemical compound to bond and first coat it (either fast set, joint filler or easifill) and coat up later with a joint compound after boxing the walls and ceilings. This is just the way things are done here due to temperature and humidity as it allows us to sometimes apply 2 coats in a day.

It never gets warm enough here to apply two coats from a box in a single day so you have to be resourceful.