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turrican_007
10-10-2010, 07:04 AM
Could i please have some feed back on how often you change the drive shafts in your sanding machines. I had one lasted 3 years when it broke i replaced it and within 2 hrs of sanding the shaft broke again replaced it again and that one lasted about 1hr??

Either the 2 new ones were weak or there is another problem? there is a slight kink in the casing (Ref: PC887979 118 40 +vat) would that be causing the shaft to break? I replaced the bearing aswell (when the first shaft broke).When i replaced the drive shafts everything was running free with no tight spots.

:feedback:

Goodmanatee
10-10-2010, 08:59 AM
When the drive shaft goes you should replace the casing aswell. when they snap they damage the inside of the casing. causing a weak spot. Should all so grease it up as well.
By the way simon did they sort you out with another job after basingstoke burnt down?
and what do you think about the new gear?

the_legend
10-10-2010, 01:44 PM
as goodmanatee says,replace the casing as well.its also worth feeling the casing for any heat when your using the sander because its a sure sign that its needing greased,when you unscrew the casing put plenty grease in the head of the sander because theres a bearing there that tends to heat up chances are thatll be shy of any lube,once they start to get hot it wont be long untill that fails and there a pain in the ass to get replaced.....

TonyM
10-10-2010, 02:56 PM
My sander is about 5-6 yrs old and still on it's original driveshaft.

amestaper
10-10-2010, 05:38 PM
My sander is about 5-6 yrs old and still on it's original driveshaft.

the kiss of death or commentators curse Tony

I've got an original flex giraffe, mines about the same age and still on the original driveshaft as well. I have broken 2 driveshafts on identical sanders that belong to other people, sorry I meant money grabbing assholes, while working PAYE and both times they have caught on proud screws and loose cables.

I agree with previous comments and would go as far to suggest manufacturers and distributers supply the cable and casing in the same package cos they know this happens and that you'll be right back for another not long after. :nono:

With my own I'm careful where I stick it and never let it run for over 30 mins at a time so it wont overheat.

turrican_007
11-10-2010, 04:26 PM
Great feedback thanks,

I have a flex thats still running on the original drive shaft and thats about 5-6 years old (kiss of death again) but i totally agree with amestaper they should sell them as BOGOF because not only do they know you will be back for a casing but you will have to buy another driveshaft aswell ..:a1259ffc:

belmoreboy
13-10-2010, 10:39 AM
ok so drive shafts they are a big problem, but with a few tips should last tyou longer than 2 hours.
Casing should have been replaced after two breakages for sure.
couple of things to do and i know this is a big pain in the arse and the last thing you want to do after hard days graft.
Open the casing unscrewing from head and tube remove after each job, re grease and clean away any excess dust.
What seems to be happening is that the drive shafts have been made slightly thicker than a few years ago because of complaints this has caused them to touch the side of the casing wall more often during use and also disperse the grease quicker.
Another thing to do is check that the motor housing is not too clogged with dust if it is it will not allow dust to pass through to extractor and in turn cause a vortex in the tube sending dust spinning back up the tube and will eventually get into the casing and ball up all the grease making the grease useless.
I know the extraction tube and shaft tube are separate but the dust gets up the shaft side throuigh the motor housing.
This was a slight design flaw in the sander and why the new sanders on the market address this issue.
May be a bit OTT but if you can get an air compressor (pretty cheap bit of kit nowadays) saves having to unscrew the motor housing. And give it a good blast once a week - you will prolong the life of the complete machine from motor all the way up to head parts.
Just seems that they need a bit more TLC than the original flex with its much stronger parts, i guess uits all down to production costs and im sure if they could produce a drive shaft with technology that wouldnt allow it to break it would cost a small fortune but would probably damage other parts of the sander dutring its usage!
Worth getting hold of a syringe or grease gun, makes job quicker refilling casing.

turrican_007
13-10-2010, 03:42 PM
Nice one belmoreboy, i must admit the sander is the only tool i do no mantenance to, so im the one who needs a good :a1259ffc:. From this day foward i will look after them sanders and invest in a small compressor.



What is the best grease to use?

belmoreboy
14-10-2010, 07:16 PM
best grease is the flex stuff but only comes in 5 lb tub ! will check price as dont think its that expensive we only get through about one tub every 6 months and repair a shed load of sanders every week!

If not then try to get the best high temp grease you can find - lower the temp quicker it turns to liquid and disappers to quickly.

Always said the original flex and porter cable are one of the best sanders on the market as the motors are proper bomb proof if pritected from dust with good vac, only downside is they do need some maintenance, but that said not a bad thing as the other two market leaders festool and new flex wst, not so much maintenance neede nut when they do go wrong they can cost a fair bit more to repair and not best for diy repairs.

scottishlad2k10
04-03-2011, 10:42 PM
ah somethings far wrong with mine! was working fine up till yesterday now it sorta seems to pop in and out of the connection on the head????isit on its way out? pain in the ass havin to stop and pop it back in grrr

turrican_007
05-03-2011, 06:42 AM
Sounds like Drive shaft agony.

scottishlad2k10
05-03-2011, 08:13 PM
Sounds like Drive shaft agony.


ah damn any idea what i could do? change it? its still caked in grease so thats a good thing?

turrican_007
06-03-2011, 06:57 AM
If you do change it change the casing aswell or you will end up buying 2 driveshafts like i did.

This forum is full of information about sander maintenance.

scottishlad2k10
06-03-2011, 01:05 PM
If you do change it change the casing aswell or you will end up buying 2 driveshafts like i did.

This forum is full of information about sander maintenance.

gona have a look at it properly later....... its like one min its working fine then the noise change from the motor (normal loud noise) dissapears and its quiet yet the head/disk is still turning but when pressure is applied it stops turning? any idea what the fault/cause could be?

saleen836
06-03-2011, 03:40 PM
Just had to put a new set of brushes in my sander today! I'm working away during the week and had to sand the top of a stairwell with a pole sander! :O

scottishlad2k10
06-03-2011, 08:51 PM
Just had to put a new set of brushes in my sander today! I'm working away during the week and had to sand the top of a stairwell with a pole sander! :O


your not the only one!!!! i have a bathroom and a kitchen to do tomorrow as the sanders out of order im stuck with the pole grrrrrr! think its gna be a heart attack tomorrow lol

crack filler
06-03-2011, 09:03 PM
Don't want to :hijacked: but I think everybody got their answers, my sanders head has been seizing up was put WD40 in and that was releasing it but that attracts dust, squeezed some grease in that worked but only a short time, I assume it's the bearing but can't work out how to take it apart.

scottishlad2k10
06-03-2011, 09:21 PM
Don't want to :hijacked: but I think everybody got their answers, my sanders head has been seizing up was put WD40 in and that was releasing it but that attracts dust, squeezed some grease in that worked but only a short time, I assume it's the bearing but can't work out how to take it apart.

manual? what make of sander you got?