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Thread: How do you work?

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    Default How do you work?


    Since I'm from North america and most of you guys from europe. I thought it'd be cool to explain how everyone works from base to finish.

    I'll be 1st, I work with my brother so we're always a team of 2

    1st, We cover all flat joints with Fiberglass tape, 2 for board joints.
    2nd, I mix a big bucket of CGC Durabond 90 Then I use my seringe to apply a good coat of it with a flat applicator. My brother takes a 8" knive to wipe the excess. Once all flats and boards are done, my bro takes his special banjo to do corners and uses a 3 inches flusher to wipe them. Meanwhile I'm installing steel beads with floor staples and a Paslode Impulse gun (a lot better than good old air compressor/stapler)

    After I've finished with beads I put a fiberglass tape on them then I usually tape the stairways and put a 2nd coat immediately so i don't have to install ladders and beam.

    Once this is done the durabond has usually setted and I pass on flats with my 10" flatbox. I also apply 1 pass each side of each board joints at minimum setting.

    Then my brother is closing the ceilings. he's filling his nails, beads and immediatly fills the board joints i previously builded with my flatbox (usually after 30 minutes to 1 hour the mud has seized a little so it still does a nice job) Then i do the same with all my bottoms.

    Next day We sand a little flats and corners, then I give a go with the 12" flatbox. On the board joints, I give 1 pass on half the pass i made with my 10" and the other half on the board so it makes a smoother surface. My brother finish his angles with a seringe and a 3.5" corner finisher. Once I've finished with my flatbox, i put the last coat in my stairways. My brother closes his angle's corners. Then we put the finishing coat on screws, beads and 1 16" trowel coat on the board joints between my 2 12" flat box passes.

    We only put 2 coats on screws and beads. The mud we use is very good, no fish eye, very low shrinkage and easy sanding.

    Next day we do touch ups in the angle's corners, then I start sanding with my porter cable. While I'm sanding the house my brother does the touch ups with a 200W light and make sure everything is top notch. Once I've finished sanding with the porter cable i use a sponge pole sander and give a little sanding in the angle's corner.

    After that, we grab a beer and say "damn we're good!" lol (kidding)

    This has proven to be the quickest way to do an house for us. It usually only takes 3 days when drying is ok and contractors really likes it. Never had any problems with the fiberglass tape and durabond 90 combo. This stuff gets REALLY hard.

    So, how do you guys work?

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    i run round slapping fibre tape on all flats and mix up a bucket of gyproc fastset filler (dries in 30 mins) and skim the flats (with a trowel and hawk) the flats so all bevels are coverd.

    while waiting on it drying i cut all my paper tapes and run round with a bucket of gyproc fastset thats been watterd down...... dip the brush in or corner roller (if ive not forgotten it) and slap the filler into all the internal corners........... and roughly place the paper tape in place and run my internal float across it to put the tapes in place proper then slap more filler over the top of the tape using the brush or roller then skimming it off with the internal float

    by the time its done the flats should hopefully be dry depending upon if its a good bag of filler or a crap one.

    then mix up a batch and 2nd skim all the flats........ and nail/screw heads.

    then cut all my external tapes (doors,ingos,arches etc) and stick them in place with fastset and skim over the top....

    then start skimming the internal tapes with (FINISH/ReADYMIX) GYPROC PROMIX LITE < easy to sand can almost sand it with your fingers =]

    then skim externals with fastset again...........

    and start skimming out all the flats with promix

    then skim ingos & externals with promix =]

    usually do it 2 rooms at a time or 1 depending on size and time =] and if i can be botherd lol

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    Sounds like you spend all day mixing and washing your tools. Take on larger areas of work , one man should be able to use a 2 bag fast-set mix at one time (setting time 90min). More time working and less time mixing will make you more dosh
    (mixing more gear) yeha!

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    Quote Originally Posted by drywall guy View Post
    Sounds like you spend all day mixing and washing your tools. Take on larger areas of work , one man should be able to use a 2 bag fast-set mix at one time (setting time 90min). More time working and less time mixing will make you more dosh
    (mixing more gear) yeha!

    2 bags at 1 time? are you mental man? thats like 2 of the big promix buckets full...... and you have a working time of 30 mins with each batch....... no way in hell you could use that much in 30 mins especially if your working of platforms such as scaffolds....... tressles etc...... especially if you have to get up them and move them about....... if you could use that much in that time with a trowel and hawk id be impressed.

    mixing takes no time......... bosch 240v drill & paddle mixer 2 mins max

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    Scottishlad what type of fast set do you use? BG stuff (red/white bag) is a 90 mins working time. I normally mix 2 buckets at a time when starting a house, takes about 30 mins to use a bucket when trowelling.
    I fiba up whole house 1st, mix 2 tubs fast set and GO! another tub generally will see all the flats taped and I'm on to windows and upright beads. 1 more bucket does the crossers a 2nd time and spots trhe screws.
    Next day 10" box, angle and 2nd coat screws and beads
    3rd morning, 12" box, finish beads and screws and finish angles using 7" applicator and 3" corner finisher, phone the boy to sand it when its dry

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    yup sure is the gyproc joint filler if you get 90 mins working time with it your doing well.......... within 30 mins its setting solid in the bucket on me........? and usually within 30 mins on my flats its bone dry....... i wish i could get 90 mins out of it...... unless its a sh**e bag thats been sitting in the merchants for months then it takes hours to dry.

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    Says 90 min working time on the bag and thats exactly what ya get. Maybe they send all the winded and frosted bags up to your island ?!!!

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    Is this the gear you use?
    http://www.british-gypsum.com/produc...nt_filler.aspx
    90mins working time

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    Quote Originally Posted by E.K Taper View Post
    Says 90 min working time on the bag and thats exactly what ya get. Maybe they send all the winded and frosted bags up to your island ?!!!
    well if you see the state of the timbers they stock then it wouldnt surprise me...... probably all seconds ive only ever seen a time on one bag and it was 30-60 mins il check a bag on monday and see if its got a dryingtime.

    but then we got to take the moisture content of the mix and the plasterboard & the humidity into concideration. as our sites the heating is usually in before we start. if its underfloor anyway. but we do crazy houses that are well insulated & have stacks of windows so as soon as the sun comes out it generates alot of heat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by E.K Taper View Post
    Is this the gear you use?
    http://www.british-gypsum.com/produc...nt_filler.aspx
    90mins working time

    Brand: Gyproc
    Drying Time: sets 30 minutes to 1 hour approx
    Size: 12.5kg

    nope thats a diffrent style of bag?

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    filler.jpg< diffrent bag to the one in your link?

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    Yours is the same one that I use,yes! Its the same stuff though
    In my link the bag was slightly different

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    Quote Originally Posted by E.K Taper View Post
    Yours is the same one that I use,yes! Its the same stuff though
    In my link the bag was slightly different

    ahhh!!!! so it must just be pure sh**e bags they are stocking when its setting off so quick??? & the info attached said 30mins - 1hour :S how much you paying a bag? its just under 15 a bag here crooks!!!! promix is 34.92 a bucket < hell of a price jump!

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    Quote Originally Posted by scottishlad2k10 View Post
    ahhh!!!! so it must just be pure sh**e bags they are stocking when its setting off so quick??? & the info attached said 30mins - 1hour :S how much you paying a bag? its just under 15 a bag here crooks!!!! promix is 34.92 a bucket < hell of a price jump!
    Looks like they saw you coming. I pay between 5&6 pounds a bag for joint filler, and 15 for 22.5kg joint cement. Don't use that Promix, it's shite, but when I tried it, it was about 14 a tub.

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    15 pounds for a box of mud!

    it's around 13-16$ cnd here depending on brand.

    Woah man, stuff is pretty exepensive in UK. how much for a metal corner bead? 8' here it's 1.15$ ea approx for a box of 25.

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    15 is for a bag of powdered joint cement we mix ourselves. I use USG tape on beads at 1.14 + tax (20%) for an 8' length, which equates to $1.83 plus tax

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    Ive seen the usg tape on beads but never used them, how do you use them? by hand with filler or with the hopper & roller method with cement?

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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyM View Post
    Looks like they saw you coming. I pay between 5&6 pounds a bag for joint filler, and 15 for 22.5kg joint cement. Don't use that Promix, it's shite, but when I tried it, it was about 14 a tub.
    yeah just under 15 a bag but i live offshore scotland i reckon they are just bumping bastards anyway they are pure pricey!! going to start buyin it in bulk my self and get it shipped to my house probably cost me 50 - 100 but @ a pallet should work out cheaper still just gta watch the shelf life.

    i think promix lite is great! good coverage and finish........ also verry good for taping old painted plasterboard it sticks verry well and dosnt boss at all

    and its verry easy to sand compaired to the darker shit they used to sell that would set harder than fast set dark brown stuff....... thats about 15 a bucket?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ducatster View Post
    Ive seen the usg tape on beads but never used them, how do you use them? by hand with filler or with the hopper & roller method with cement?
    Either way you describe is fine to do these beads. If I have loads to do, I put them on with cement by hopper and roller, clean up and allow to dry, then coat up with one coat of joint filler 6-8 inches wide and finish with a coat of joint cement appx 10 inches wide. If I only have a few to do, it's joint filler by hand and coat up as I go, and cement to finish again. I won't use anything else now.
    USG B1 XW


    USG Beaded Flex
    Last edited by TonyM; 12-03-2011 at 09:22 PM. Reason: Added photos.

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    yer nice job mate, I like the look of the hopper but its metal angle beads where I am at the moment, so sticking them on with filler & coat up as we go with 6" blade then one thick cement! if your nice & gentle with the blade on first coat you can get away with my one & one method, well it's 1.80's worth anyway!

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