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Thread: Filling joints with a box?

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    Default Filling joints with a box?


    Hi

    Have any of you guys tried to fill out joints with ie, 7" box as iv seen a few other jointers do this i know you have the pain of washing the tools out after, but is it any quicker than just doing it by hand the thing im wondering because i know you always seem to get a step up on some joints so it seem like it will lay down to much 1 side and not enough to cover the scrim on the other side?

    ATB
    TJ

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    I have done this but only for firetaping. Works well on tapered edge but on butt joins it looked horrendous, catching the fiba tape . I work alone so wouldnt do this on house bashing cos you would need 2 of ya. 1 to box and 1 mixing then washing out etc
    Certainly was quicker than hand taping thats for sure.
    Maybe box your flats but hand tape the butt joints??

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    I've been 8" boxing for a few months now, I'm working on my own mixing up 3 - 4 tubs at a time.
    It def saves time, I'm coating a standard 4 bed house in 80 mins. I couldn't do that by hand.
    The first few houses i done i was ripping the fiba on the butts but i started fiba ing butts first then trying to fiba the flat joints in 1 strip, it def helped not had rips in a while.
    Hope that helps

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    boxes are best ran in combination, example, 7 ,10,12 or pre fill, tape, 10, then 12, or double 10 while wet then 12, or some go 8, then 10" finish, it's what ever turns you on

    If your going to cry about cleaning them, then maybe working for a living is too hard for you.

    But, you can avoid cleaning them buy bagging them in a plastic bag, or keeping them in a damp tool box, so they don't dry out. that's what I do,,,,b/c I'm lazy too

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    They are referring to first filling joints with fast set in a box where if the gear goes off in your box/pump it's going to pretty much ruin your kit. I don't think anyone is too worried about washing joint cement out from a box.

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    For real I don't know how you could not use a box, I've always used them, they save so much and they do such a better job. All the lines are crisp and straight, once you try it you'll never go back. You don't really have to clean the box every time either, I just stick it in some water in a bucket and it's good until I need to use it again. The only problem with the box is that you also need other tools to get started, like you need a pump and a box handle, with could run you up some money. The good video tutorials on how to use the box on this website: howtodrywall.co

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    The Quick Fill 60 would be a good alternative for 7" or 8" boxing over tape first coat. no judging how long set time will be - will post a price on here later
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    BG ProSet is an 12 hour setting compound which would give ya plenty time to wash up.
    Not much use though if you want to crack on with your 10"box same day but for large areas..... maybe worth a shout

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    Looks like some confusion on this thread our foreign counterparts maybe don't realise that TJ is talking about hot mudding the joints first , as we often do that over here due to temp etc .

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    Quote Originally Posted by sejlane View Post
    Looks like some confusion on this thread our foreign counterparts maybe don't realise that TJ is talking about hot mudding the joints first , as we often do that over here due to temp etc .
    That would be me

    And in my defense, he did make no mention of hotmud or quick set, so I was like WTF, Looks like the WTF swung around and bit me in the arse.

    Gee,,, If only some people could learn to speak english.....eh'

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    Its fast set all the way over here 2buck, very few tapers use paper tape on flats n butts now. Our fast set is a 90minute set so if your boxing with a 7" first then you need to get moving!

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    So you guys are all mesh and hotmuds?? Dam?? And i though NZ was backwards?? But the ground does not shake for you guys like here (Earthquakes) If it did then you would be changing your tune to, crack crack oh all i see are cracks, Mind you, All your brick and stone buildings would be piles of rubble as well.

    Thats not an attack at you either, Im just saying this is how it is down here, Christchurch is a mess, All older buildings (100 years or less) are now regarded as death traps and the cost to insure and earthquake strengthen is crazy so the value of these are almost land value only the way its going, I look at all your brick and stone work and the age of it all in aw, One day i would love to see some castles but god help you if a quake hit, I dont think it can though?? Can it??

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    We've had a few earthquakes hit 4 on the richter scale but they wouldnt knock you over or wake you up. Edinburgh where I live has a volcano near the centre of the city that hasnt erupted in millions of years, and it wouldnt be pleasant if that came back to life. Who knows though we have enough hassle with ash clouds from Icelandic volcanos I couldnt pronounce.... which has pissed off many fliers around here.

    http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Is_edinbur...o_still_active

    Not everyones a mesh and fast set guy here btw, I do both dependant on job spec but I have seen some 7" boxes take a week to dry because of temp/humidity problems so sometimes using hot mud cant be helped when you're pushed for time.
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    I use hotmuds as well, In NZ its standard one hotmud papertape coat, then one more hotmud coat, Then one airdry top coat all by hand, I quit that and got all the tools a few years back and started mixing things up a bit, I did the airdry system for a while but it can cause some shrinkage issues so currently its hotmud banjo tape coat flats then airdry coats, this helps stop some shrinkage, Zooka all purpose for the corners after a hotmud prefill.

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    Yeah I remember going to start a new site once and the agent was insisting no fiba tape was to be used, until we told him cos its winter the taper would need 10 days in the house - a 3 bedder! He wasn't long changing his mind then

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    Have you guys got fibafuse, Thats a far stronger product than fibatape and has open weave to allow better drying. Use it like papertape but the wipedown is so easy as the mud goes thru the tape, not out the sides like paper.

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    Yes I've heard of the fibafuse Cazna but haven't used it yet . I think Belmore sell it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by E.K Taper View Post
    Yes I've heard of the fibafuse Cazna but haven't used it yet . I think Belmore sell it?
    Yea they do sell it! Done a house with the stuff and its pretty good! Make sure mud is thin and cover up well as its like being rolled about in glass wool by the end of the day
    Bit expensive!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by E.K Taper View Post
    I have done this but only for firetaping. Works well on tapered edge but on butt joins it looked horrendous, catching the fiba tape . I work alone so wouldnt do this on house bashing cos you would need 2 of ya. 1 to box and 1 mixing then washing out etc
    Certainly was quicker than hand taping thats for sure.
    Maybe box your flats but hand tape the butt joints??
    A possible solution to your butts.... Do a split on the but joints. Run the box down each side of the tape leaving the tape bare. When that dries, cap them down the center with the box. This way your box is farther out from your tape and your transition is already in process.

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    I get what you mean MT, although when firetaping, its as quick as you can get in and out, no going back to coat butts again. Dont fancy boxing the place out then having to go back over the butts again.

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