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Thread: More Columbia taper help please

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    Default More Columbia taper help please


    Started to use the taper was loving it , then i hit a few snags , firstly whilst doing the Ceiling internals the tape was snagging and the taper seemed to skid and go tight then loosen up whilst applying tape , also needle on back is tearing tape as i feed into taper oh and one last thing the tape was falling from the ceiling by the time i got around the reoom before i could roll/flush it , was my mix too wet/ Dry ? thanks in advance guys .

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    Default RE: More Columbia taper help please

    When you said "skid and go tight then loosen up" do the drive wheels keep turning? I find somethimes when the tape snags inside the machine, the blade either needs changing or there are crusty bits inside the head. Take a 12" long piece of metal from one side of a piece of corner tape and ram it right up both sides of the tape guide assembly until it appears out the top of the bazooka to dislodge any gremlins that could be jamming the tape. Sometimes the pin just needs adjusting or changing (ive seen me use a small panel pin when I didnt have spares) and its trial by error to find a proper setting that pulls the tape up when feeding but falls out when the the control tube is dropped back to neutral.

    Not sure if you meant flat or internal tapes on ceiling, so dont take this the wrong way if I overdo my comment.

    The tape falling from a flat ceiling joint could either be your mix is too runny, (its easier to tape runny than too thick btw) you're stringing too much tape (I never do more than 2 or 3 minutes at a time as I work on my own now), or technique. Start the tapes on the ceilings with maybe 1 to 2 foot with both wheels in contact with the board, the tilt it slightly until only 1 wheel is in contact, then return to 2 wheels in contact just before you make the cut.

    Internals are better started about 4 to 6 inches before where you should start because it will drag anyway, even more so on long stretches. Its trial and error in adjusting your footing and body position until you get the tape snug into the corner with the creaser wheel so it wont fall out.

    I find wall to ceiling internals are the hardest of all and I do hate doing them, just apply a few tapes instead of a full room at a time and give the tape time to soak before your roll and flush it. What I also do is roll and flush them off in the opposite direction from what I put them on as this eliminates any creases and wrinkles there may be in the tape without wasting any time doing it by hand.
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    Thanks Amestaper all that makes perfect sense , it was on wall to ceiling internals. I see i'm going to have to persevere with the taper because as soon as it snagged i didn't have time to fiddle with it or check my technique , i just reverted to putting the taper down and reverted to taping by hand to finish my workload for that day as i didn't want to run over due to the tight rates . 1.50 per meter at the moment they supply , whats that like compared to everyone else ?

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    Aint that a bitch? They're not exactly the easiest tapes to stop half way through and I have wore a few wet nooses round my neck from doing ceiling internals when I was learning the trade. Safer just to cut the tape when it jams so it doesnt end up on the floor, you can always overlap another one soon after. If it doesnt cut, then the blades also a problem, just remove it and it may be something as silly as a bit tape jammed against it instead of needing a replacement.

    Theyre not the easiest tools to use. My left arm is buggered from an injury i got about 6 years ago, and I really have to learn to use the thing left handed before it puts me out of action for good.

    1.50? I was earning more than that in 1993 and I hate to see whats happening with rates in the trade just now. Sorry dude but this is the closest smiley I have to banging my head on the keyboard.



    ~Edit: Check the downloads section out sejlane, theres loads of Columbia schematics and a users manual.
    http://www.tapingandjointing.com/forum/downloads.php
    Last edited by amestaper; 03-07-2011 at 06:28 PM. Reason: loads of columbia stuff in downloads
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    Here's a smart and intelligent taper who seems to know what he's talking about, have no idea who he is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xooYBevv-Ck

    If your bazooka wheel goes loose then stiff, then you need new plastic bushings

    If your tape is not feeding all the way through or the needle keeps ripping the tape, it could be b/c your cutting blade is not advancing all the way back. jiggle the cutter and watch the cutting chain when you do that, if you see the chain move then,,,,,,problems......or when your tape don't advance, then yank on the chain buy hand, could be you need new bearings for the cutting chain.

    Is your bazooka new or used ??????
    your mud should be like a runny pancake mix, if you guys have pancakes over there.

    Hope the video helps you

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    Also sejlane, here's a columbia face book page http://www.facebook.com/ColumbiaTapingTools , they rip a bazooka apart and put it back together again, you will see what I mean about the wheel bushings on the drive wheel, if their put in wrong then the wheel will run stiff, then loose, stiff ,then loose, get what I mean, watch all 3 vids, they have vids for angle head repairs too.

    Also, make sure you use a diamond cutting blade also, the ones shaped like a triangle, single cutting blades are cr@p if your using one

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    Quote Originally Posted by amestaper View Post

    I find wall to ceiling internals are the hardest of all and I do hate doing them, just apply a few tapes instead of a full room at a time and give the tape time to soak before your roll and flush it. What I also do is roll and flush them off in the opposite direction from what I put them on as this eliminates any creases and wrinkles there may be in the tape without wasting any time doing it by hand.
    WTF, you want to get on those angle tapes as soon as you can with the roller, drywall is designed to suck the moister from the mud, also, why not just start rolling from the middle, a long angle tape say 24 ft (6M) can stretch in length by a 1/2 inch or more, so if you start in the middle......

    Also, do your horizontals 1st, then roll them out, then come back and do your up-rights, always make sure the up-right tape touches the ceiling. That tape (the up-right) is your fixer tape. If you were a bit short with your horizontal tapes, the up-right tape will hide them better

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2buck View Post
    your mud should be like a runny pancake mix, if you guys have pancakes over there.
    Yup. I've seen a few busted cables due to mud mixed up to the consistency of ice cream.

    Quote Originally Posted by 2buck View Post
    WTF, you want to get on those angle tapes as soon as you can with the roller, drywall is designed to suck the moister from the mud, also, why not just start rolling from the middle, a long angle tape say 24 ft (6M) can stretch in length by a 1/2 inch or more, so if you start in the middle.....
    I work on my own bro and fall back to roll the tapes and flush them off every time the taper is emptied. Never saw one dry out in 2 minutes because this is Scotland where the temp is rarely above 20 degrees C (70 degrees C), not Florida. I do roll from the middle, I just use the corner finisher in the opposite direction from where I bazooka'd them on.

    Any tip that saves me downing the tools and going back to fix by hand is always noted. That small pointer I learned from a US taper must save me a whole 90 seconds a day.
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    much appreciated thanks guys .

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    Quote Originally Posted by amestaper View Post
    Yup. I've seen a few busted cables due to mud mixed up to the consistency of ice cream.



    I work on my own bro and fall back to roll the tapes and flush them off every time the taper is emptied. Never saw one dry out in 2 minutes because this is Scotland where the temp is rarely above 20 degrees C (70 degrees C), not Florida. I do roll from the middle, I just use the corner finisher in the opposite direction from where I bazooka'd them on.

    Any tip that saves me downing the tools and going back to fix by hand is always noted. That small pointer I learned from a US taper must save me a whole 90 seconds a day.
    it don't get over 20 degrees there??????? why to heck were you guys not the inventors of long underwear, instead of the kilt ????

    Gee, everyone one thinks Canada is the land of ice and snow, in the summer where I live (great lakes area) the average temperature is 33c , then throw in the thing they call the humidex , it can feel like 40 something. We can get days where there is no sun, there's just a dark grey sky, and no wind. It's just hot and humid and it can get to 40c. It's like working in a swimming pool, and nothing dries

    tape talk here, I find amestaper when I do work by myself I keep pushing the horizontal angles, I find it's harder working by yourself, you got to keep pushing your self. It's more walking but I find you will race more, I might do 2 or 3 bazooka loads of Horizontals, roll them, then hit the uprights, then roll and flush room by room.

    Also, when by myself, 1st day I just push pre-fill (of coarse) screws,flats and beads installed, then 2nd day I coat/bed everything. Then on the 3rd day I will lay the angle tapes/internals. This is a system meant for larger jobs 7,000 sq ft or more. There are advantages to this system when your a one man show, and too much typing to explain why, but I know most of our one man crews run this system.

    Just gabbing a way here, you said a yank saved you 90 seconds once, I'm trying to save you a few hours

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