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Thread: Compound tube and bazooka combo - thoughts?

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    Default Compound tube and bazooka combo - thoughts?


    Will be starting out on my own on price soon (been patching/making good last 5 years and and before that was jointing/labourer. Anyways basically when I used to work for someone we used to use a tube to load up the internals and then run the bazooka dry to put paper on...now I'm about to start on my own I'm thinking I want to do what I know (everyone I work with thinks I'm nuts buying a bazooka and not just getting a pump , gooseneck and using it properly) .so question is does/has anyone else run a bazooka dry and is it ok to do so? Or should I just scrap the tube idea?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Minksy89 View Post
    Will be starting out on my own on price soon (been patching/making good last 5 years and and before that was jointing/labourer. Anyways basically when I used to work for someone we used to use a tube to load up the internals and then run the bazooka dry to put paper on...now I'm about to start on my own I'm thinking I want to do what I know (everyone I work with thinks I'm nuts buying a bazooka and not just getting a pump , gooseneck and using it properly) .so question is does/has anyone else run a bazooka dry and is it ok to do so? Or should I just scrap the tube idea?
    yes i have, when i worked with a master bazooka guy we did this. its a ace method if you good with the bazooka and the tube. i am crap with it so just use a tube and put tape in by hand.

    there are several reasons why its better to tube then dry bazooka but my advice to you if you're buying a bazooka buy a tube too as they are cheap.

    Try both ways, wet and dry bazooka.. even put tape in by hand and do what takes your fancy.

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    Dry bazooka? Wouldn't the cable eventually snap,? Why not use the bazooka as it should be used??

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    Quote Originally Posted by thomas.savage View Post
    yes i have, when i worked with a master bazooka guy we did this. its a ace method if you good with the bazooka and the tube. i am crap with it so just use a tube and put tape in by hand.

    there are several reasons why its better to tube then dry bazooka but my advice to you if you're buying a bazooka buy a tube too as they are cheap.

    Try both ways, wet and dry bazooka.. even put tape in by hand and do what takes your fancy.
    I'm actually fine using the bazooka dry but never really had a go with loading it or using it loaded. I'm guessing its pretty much the same just heavier? Think because I've only used it dry is the reason why I'm leaning more towards the tube and bazooka method because I've done it like that before so more confident to just jump straight into it

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    ..

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    Quote Originally Posted by sq ames taper View Post
    Dry bazooka? Wouldn't the cable eventually snap,? Why not use the bazooka as it should be used??
    . Can you not disengage the cable or leave it positioned in neutral/fill so the cable never gets strained?

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    You will have to adjust a bit if you fully use the taper. There will most likely be some drag in the tape. Comes down to mud consistency, you'll want it fairly thin


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by Minksy89 View Post
    I'm actually fine using the bazooka dry but never really had a go with loading it or using it loaded. I'm guessing its pretty much the same just heavier? Think because I've only used it dry is the reason why I'm leaning more towards the tube and bazooka method because I've done it like that before so more confident to just jump straight into it
    U going 2 buy a new zook and not put filler in it? If ur buying a zook to run dry then I would b looking for a cheap second hand 1!

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    working with the dry zook at the moment and got to say its a great way to work.
    worked it the normal way but finally got fed up with dry spots behind tapes,think its a clutch thing,know a few tapers who have the problem
    I use a level 5 8 inch angle box with a ribbed corner applicator with no probs,find it a lot quicker with no probs with dry spots.
    the level 5 angle box is superior to Columbia angle box which was drawing air constantly I finally binned it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by big g View Post
    working with the dry zook at the moment and got to say its a great way to work.
    worked it the normal way but finally got fed up with dry spots behind tapes,think its a clutch thing,know a few tapers who have the problem
    I use a level 5 8 inch angle box with a ribbed corner applicator with no probs,find it a lot quicker with no probs with dry spots.
    the level 5 angle box is superior to Columbia angle box which was drawing air constantly I finally binned it.
    even better with a tube to load the internals with...

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    aye Thomas,actually had this conversation a few days ago with a taper who I know leaves a good job and he swears by the tubes.
    need to get my arse in gear and get 1.

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    Quote Originally Posted by big g View Post
    aye Thomas,actually had this conversation a few days ago with a taper who I know leaves a good job and he swears by the tubes.
    need to get my arse in gear and get 1.
    yea its quicker to load and use, i been using them for 15 years + so i got the hang of it lol but its easy TBH. you might still like your angle box for the finish coat though.. we will see. dont get the silly big one the 36 inch is fine, and columbia makes the best tube but the new tapetech looks interesting..

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    Quote Originally Posted by big g View Post
    working with the dry zook at the moment and got to say its a great way to work.
    worked it the normal way but finally got fed up with dry spots behind tapes,think its a clutch thing,know a few tapers who have the problem
    I use a level 5 8 inch angle box with a ribbed corner applicator with no probs,find it a lot quicker with no probs with dry spots.
    the level 5 angle box is superior to Columbia angle box which was drawing air constantly I finally binned it.
    Why do u get dry spots behind ur tapes??

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    ok looks like standard length is 42" now but that's ok, just dont bother with the 55".

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    Quote Originally Posted by Beermonster View Post
    Why do u get dry spots behind ur tapes??
    hi BM,
    couldn't work it out tbh.
    hired my tools for god knows how many years working zook normally with no probs then a couple of years ago decided to splash out on a new Columbia kit and from day 1 had the prob with the gun.
    shoulda sent it back probably but thought because it was new it would come good but it never did.
    dry spot in the same place every time.at the start of every run about 8to 9 inches in would get a dry spot of about 3 to 4 inches
    tried cutting tape when zook was still moving,tried stopping zook cutting then running it on,tried changing the tightness on the wheel with the lever on the Columbia gun,nothing worked still same dry spot in the same place.came to conclusion it must be clutch related,dont know why but only thing I could think of.
    have spoke to a few tapers who have same problem so seems to be a common problem.
    tbh I don't know if I would go back to that way of working,i really like this method of angle taping,it is so easy to do and so easy on the old muscles I can get a good speed going.i know it sounds wrong with there being an extra operation involved in coating angle out b4 putting tape on but it is so easy and can go quicker with empty gun it makes it so easy to do.

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    Quote Originally Posted by big g View Post
    hi BM,
    couldn't work it out tbh.
    hired my tools for god knows how many years working zook normally with no probs then a couple of years ago decided to splash out on a new Columbia kit and from day 1 had the prob with the gun.
    shoulda sent it back probably but thought because it was new it would come good but it never did.
    dry spot in the same place every time.at the start of every run about 8to 9 inches in would get a dry spot of about 3 to 4 inches
    tried cutting tape when zook was still moving,tried stopping zook cutting then running it on,tried changing the tightness on the wheel with the lever on the Columbia gun,nothing worked still same dry spot in the same place.came to conclusion it must be clutch related,dont know why but only thing I could think of.
    have spoke to a few tapers who have same problem so seems to be a common problem.
    tbh I don't know if I would go back to that way of working,i really like this method of angle taping,it is so easy to do and so easy on the old muscles I can get a good speed going.i know it sounds wrong with there being an extra operation involved in coating angle out b4 putting tape on but it is so easy and can go quicker with empty gun it makes it so easy to do.
    the mans right!

    if you think about it, take a normal site 4 bed.. coating up all the internals with a tube and head will take 5 min maybe 7 if your retarded. so its time free TBH. you can put more up there so can flush with a 3 or 3.5" making it much better to top on the next day compared to a crappy 2" corner finisher that wont fill out tapered edges. that alone it worth it.

    you also can roll in much MUCH more quickly..no messy gun, you can even run filler this way! if your nuts. have your mix a little thinner helps too..

    you can even mod the applicator heads to put on exactly the amount of compound YOU want. if your addicted to that crap 2" corner finisher thats ok as you can just leave a bead of compound that will stick the tape but leave little excess.. flush easy even with 2".

    the only thing that bollocks can be stopping the tape from dragging a little down the ceiling so you leave a gap at the start but that's just skill..

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    Quote Originally Posted by big g View Post
    hi BM,
    couldn't work it out tbh.
    hired my tools for god knows how many years working zook normally with no probs then a couple of years ago decided to splash out on a new Columbia kit and from day 1 had the prob with the gun.
    shoulda sent it back probably but thought because it was new it would come good but it never did.
    dry spot in the same place every time.at the start of every run about 8to 9 inches in would get a dry spot of about 3 to 4 inches
    tried cutting tape when zook was still moving,tried stopping zook cutting then running it on,tried changing the tightness on the wheel with the lever on the Columbia gun,nothing worked still same dry spot in the same place.came to conclusion it must be clutch related,dont know why but only thing I could think of.
    have spoke to a few tapers who have same problem so seems to be a common problem.
    tbh I don't know if I would go back to that way of working,i really like this method of angle taping,it is so easy to do and so easy on the old muscles I can get a good speed going.i know it sounds wrong with there being an extra operation involved in coating angle out b4 putting tape on but it is so easy and can go quicker with empty gun it makes it so easy to do.
    Not sure what the problem could b!!! But it has a 5 year warranty on it so u could send it to Marcus to get it checked over!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Beermonster View Post
    Not sure what the problem could b!!! But it has a 5 year warranty on it so u could send it to Marcus to get it checked over!
    because I just use zook for my angles I couldn't go back to that way of working BM.
    using applicator and dry zook is such a great way of angle taping.
    as Thomas says the tape rolls in so easy, flushes of with 1 pass, and tops off with 1 pass.
    it is so quick and easy I wish I had tried it years ago

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    I like the sound of the light, empty and clean zook. That said, mine is already loaded and dirty from running the flats by the time we start internals so it'd just be adding another process.

    If you're using fast set for first 1 or 2 coats on flats though i can see this being a very friendly system for intervals.

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    Would a banjo to lay the tape and a tube to fill the internal for flushing be quicker and a lot cheaper? U could even fill the banjo with the tube as you don't want to buy a pump, just my opinion lol

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