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Thread: Help Flat box settings

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    Default Help Flat box settings


    Hi, I have been searching past posts looking for my answer and couldn't find one. is there a standard recommendation for what setting number to have on flat boxes for different applications. i mean maybe other people set their boxes to use less joint compound etc. could u give me an idea what you do and maybe i will learn something new that will help me save time and use less materials. I have only recently switched to the taping boxes and have tapetech. I used to just use wet'n'stick and then applied the joint compound with a roller believe it or not. it may sound naf but it worked very well. i still use this method with inside corners and then spray on my final coat with the graco mark v i find the corner box a bit of a nightmare and very awkward. I have been looking at aplatech CFS system as i already have the right size sprayers.

    I do the following
    recessed joints
    1st coat with 7inch box set on 3
    2nd coat with 10 inch set on 4
    then i spray a mist coat of thinned down ready mixed with my graco and skim off by hand.

    Butt Joints
    1st coat split either side with a 10 inch box set to 0
    2nd coat down the middle with a 12 inch set to 1
    then again i spray a mist coat of thinned down ready mixed with my graco and skim off by hand.

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    Tommy (09-08-2011)

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    Season ticket holder amestaper's Avatar
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    its been years since I did the BG course but I think the recommended settings were 2,3, and 4 for the 7", 10" and 12" box respectively. Heavy for the first box and every subsequent coat is thinner with a runnier consistency if my memory serves me correctly. I just use whatever Im comfy with and leaves the least sanding because all sheeting isnt up to the same standard.
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    Getting the hang of this
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    3 4 4 for me but the nuts are adjustable, so if they've been moved at all its anyones guess

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    VIP E.K Taper's Avatar
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    Hi,
    Its been years since I used the bazooka to strap out a house, so I never need the 7"box anymore, its all fast set and fiba tape now. On thinking back, the 7" was set to 1 although some tapers used an 'open box'
    meaning 0.
    10" box I set at 2 and I set the 12" box at 3.
    Looking at the other replies you've had, its plain to see that no two tapers are the same! Trial and error my friend.
    Good luck

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    Member JON RAMBO's Avatar
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    1 or 2 for 10" 1 or 2 for 12" no 2 boxes are the same its what suits you.

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    Getting the hang of this 2buck's Avatar
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    Default phil

    skip that 7" box,just run a double 10",run one floor/pad then go over your work again,or to experiment,run a joint,wait 10 or 15 minutes,then run it again,your work will look like glass,it remove's all porosity from your joint, call it chasing here in canuck land.I use north star boxes,1st pass @ #4 ,second pass @#3,next day if dry,I use 12" @#4 so it skims it tight,not load but skims with no edge.12" box is one of you best money making toys.
    always check the setting of your blades before you start a new job,very IMPORTANT.weather you use some type of measuring tool ,a spark plug gauge/head of a dry wall nail,what ever,if your blade is one mill from shoe,make sure it is ALWAYS one mil from the shoe forever .
    30 years taping experience

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    Member Deck's Avatar
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    I bed in and flush over by hand at the same time then 10" box set at 2 and 12" set at 4. Works fine for me.
    http://www.specialist-decorators.co.uk

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    Regular Member turrican_007's Avatar
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    1 Filler & scrim
    2 10" = 2
    3 12" = 3
    www.dryliningfinisher.co.uk

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