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Thread: Thin coat beads

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    Default Thin coat beads

    drywallschool.com

    What is the best way to stick thin coat galvanised beads?. At present i stick them with fast-set then 2 coats of joint cemment. What i want to know is can you use a bead clincher to clamp them on, or do they need to be bedded on with fast-set.I use flex-tape around the window ingos and only use the beads for 2.4 external corners.

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    I didn't know we had clinchers this side of the "Pond"
    I have seen them stuck on with Gripfill/Pinkgrip, then 3 coated

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    we have been trying for ages to find someone that makes bead ckich on tool, have sampled most on the market and all are geared towards the USA style full face skim bead that are wider.

    We once sold a USA bead tool to a guy who said he made it work on uk beads but never heard back from him?

    I know a few guys that staple beads on first.
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    I used to fix them with 14mm staples. Quick as.... and then 1 coat fast set, 2 coats cement. Don't use them anymore as they stand out too far.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyM View Post
    I used to fix them with 14mm staples. Quick as.... and then 1 coat fast set, 2 coats cement. Don't use them anymore as they stand out too far.
    i use staples if there are a load.othersise i dab them on and coat up straight away.

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by belmoreboy View Post
    we have been trying for ages to find someone that makes bead ckich on tool, have sampled most on the market and all are geared towards the USA style full face skim bead that are wider.

    We once sold a USA bead tool to a guy who said he made it work on uk beads but never heard back from him?

    I know a few guys that staple beads on first.
    The guy you sold the clincher too was I

    I have over the last 2 years made a cople of prototypes but have not yet managed to scale down the dimensions & have a smooth working tool. It has been quite expensive to have the parts CNC 'd
    from a billet of alloy. The ideal working tool would be injetion moulded ABS.

    At the moment [well last 9 months] it get a quick fettle when time allows.

    It has not been forgotten as we only use thin coat bead & can see the benefit of a clincher.
    Milk No Sugar.

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    Quote Originally Posted by belmoreboy View Post
    we have been trying for ages to find someone that makes bead ckich on tool, have sampled most on the market and all are geared towards the USA style full face skim bead that are wider.

    We once sold a USA bead tool to a guy who said he made it work on uk beads but never heard back from him?

    I know a few guys that staple beads on first.
    Cliching bead on is so 1980's, no one does it on this side of the pond no more, Nore does anyone use metal bead, unless you like call backs. and hotmud is not going to help, it is too brittle and does not adhere while to steal. What is mostly used is paper bead (b1U's), and that will be soon over taken by pre-cut no-coat

    Here's a video of no-coat vs metal bead http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ld-X5Dh05E

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    Trouble is 2 Buck No Coat is too dear for your average Taper who is house bashing.
    I bought some for a Commercial job we done, and it was 40 a roll.
    It's damn good stuff and that video I showed to the main contractor, and he wanted us to use that, and was willing to pay for it.

    House bashing where you are only getting between 1.30 to 1.80 a m2 supply and fit, you have to have whatever is the cheapest option.

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